Friday, July 12, 2013

Be Not Concerned with the Crowded Waters of Croatia - The Anchorages are Empty

2013 07 12
Zadar, Croatia

Anchored in a Cove on MurvenJik Island

When I tell you we had this unbelievable anchorage all to ourselves night before last you might be inclined to scoff.  

Croatian waters are crowded.  In the last two days we have not sailed a single tack without being interfered with by some  halfwit on vacation cutting across our bow in an ill calculated effort to establish his superiority.  On one tack yesterday we were forced to divert three times to let the feeble minded watertwits pass by.  

So in this septic pond how can the splendour pictured be allotted to a single boat?

Well not only can the vacationers not sail but they hate to anchor.  They will go to any lengths to get their scrawny little butts to a marina every night.  To these guys the crowded trailer park atmosphere of a €80 a night marina (the going rate around here) is superior to the protected waters of Murvenjik.  It does not compute with us but there it is.

Every night we anchor alone or with one or two boats from Australia or Sweden, most often alone.  All the other boats are parked at marinas or on mooring balls.  

The anchorage at Murvenjik had 7 boats in it when we arrived late in the day.  We dropped anchor, set and snubbed the anchor and went below to get out of the blistering sun.  Two hours later, after a nice nap, I emerged to find every boat gone and we sole owners of what you see above. 


Our Anchorage South of Skradin offered emenities
not found at the ACI Marina Skradin


It was a lovely night.

The night before we had sailed up the Krka River as far as bridges would allow.  There we sought to anchor but when we arrived we found a refugee camp filled with desperate boaters anchored in wild disarray all waiting for admission at the ACI Marina there.  The river was littered with people, some of whom had been waiting all day trying to get a slip.  The anchoring was dangerous with fifty odd boats bobbing around, badly aligned and with bizarrely short scope on their chains.  We were concerned while manoeuvering through their midst that we might come to harm on people's anchoring.  

Quickly we vamoosed the area, a visual and aural disaster, and headed a scant mile and a half downstream.  There, in a thousand acre widening of the river we anchored with total protection.  All alone.

Next day we weighted anchor, motored half a mile to a little town, reanchored, dropped the dinghy in the water, rowed to shore and purchased groceries at a nice little store in a park, rowed back, hoisted the dinghy, hauled anchor and headed for Murvenjak where we anchored alone again.  

A guy can get used to this.



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